Hello there,
1) Yes. You can use poly. It is easier to work with and sets harder than lacquer. For this project, poly is better than lacquer. Lacquer does not mix well with most enamels (cloudy finish and may curdle). Poly is safe to use with enamel.
2) I do not think so. I have used poly many times without a problem. If you are using a spray gun, of course were a mask so you do not inhale the mist. With a spray can, that is not as much of an issue. I do alway do my painting in a well vented area.
3) Not sure what you mean? The clear coats do seal the color coats and protects them. That is the purpose of the clear coat. After the clear coats cure (takes longer than just drying), you can buff the clear to get that factory finish shine. There is a good video demonstration about how to do that on Youtube.
4) Primer and sealer are the same thing, at least to my thinking. The primer seals the pores in the wood so the color coat does not soak in.
5) Does this article help you?
http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/swirled.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cY4LXZqX-w&feature=related
If this is a project guitar and the bridge or pickups are new to that body, do fit them to the body before you paint. You want to do any modifications, drilling new holes, plugging old ones, routing new or enlarging present cavities before you put on a new finish. After you have fitted everything together, disassemble the guitar for painting.
Sounds like a lot of primer to me. I shoot one thin coat and let it dry. I never need 2 days for the primer to dry. Also, if you stripped finish off the body, sand the body with fine grit paper to remove any scratches from stripping the old finish (before you shoot on primer).
Have a rack or something made to hang your body after dipping. You want some way to hang it up while it dries.
On the clear coats. You need to work slowly. Expect to put on more than 3 coats. With a swirl finish, the colors do not come out smooth. Do not sand them smooth, you can cut through the colors. Instead, you mist (very fine) clear coat. Let dry and mist again. Do that several times until you have a solid base for the clear. Then you can wet sand the clear to smooth things out and continue with the clear coats.
This guy sells swirl paint job bodies on ebay. He has a good description about the clear coat process on his web site.
http://www.perleguitars.com/clearcoatfaqs.html
With lacquer you need 10 days or more for the lacquer to cure before you can buff. Poly cures faster than that.
Later,
Hello again,
By the way the sealer/primer you use depends less on the type of wood, and more on the other paints you will be using. Make sure your primer is compatible with the enamel. Where ever you are buying your paints, talk with them to make sure that your sealer and clear coat are compatible with the color coat.