Tips to Run Metal Conduit through 2x4 stud wall?

Question

Tips to Run Metal Conduit through 2x4 stud wall?

Answer 1

How To Run Conduit

Answer 2

Metal 2x4

Answer 3

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Answer 4

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RE:

Tips to Run Metal Conduit through 2x4 stud wall?

I am finishing my basement using 2x4 stud walls. I was told by our Building Inspector that ALL electrical wiring must be run in Metal Conduit ONLY. Flexible conduit and Romex are not allowed. So my question is, are there any tips or what is the easiest way to run metal conduit through a 2x4 stud...

Answer 5

By now you must be totally confused ! The inspector and local codes are what must be followed ( always) !! As far as drilling the studs measure up from the floor two feet, mount a 2x4 on either side of the wall this will act as a guide for the drill to rest on as you drill ,your holes, are to be on center of the studs !! You can use a self pulling bit or a wood bit either way on center and straight, toe nail the studs into the bottom plate enough to hold the stud but don't sink them you can pull them so the studs has some movement while you install your pipe and the inspector is talking about EMT. If you can not follow this call the Electrical Union Hall speak with them and they will put you in touch with some one who knows what he doing!! This is from a retired IBEW worker with 40 years in the trade!!!!!

Answer 6

Are you talking rigid metal conduit, like EMT? That's normally only required in unfinished spaces (are you not planning on finishing your walls any time soon)?



EMT is a pain to run horizontally through walls for any distance. Better to go up if at all possible. If you're lucky enough to have open floor trusses instead of solid joists or if 90%+ of your runs are along the joists instead of across them, then it won't be too bad. Otherwise, if you can spare some headroom, fasten 1" or 1 1/2" furring strips every 16" across the bottom of your joists (at right angles to the joists) and attach your ceiling drywall to that. This will create small raceways that you can then run conduit through.

Answer 7

I think you need to clarify this point with the inspector. I've never heard of rigid metal conduit being required inside the studs of existing interior walls. It's A: Nearly impossible to do, and B: to notch studs deeply enough to recess conduit robs them of much of their strength. Through exterior walls yes. Outside the wall yes. But not in existing walls. At least not in Georgia.

Answer 8

There's a difference between flexible metal shielded cable (BX) and flexible conduit. Make sure what he's talking about. Flexible conduit is much easier the run through studs than EMT.

Answer 9

Your problem is not a National Code issue, it is local. (I won't go into the whole union/Democrat construction control thing for Chicagoland...)



Running on the ceiling is an option of you have room for the conduit radius between the structural ceiling and a lower framed ceiling. I believe EMT is acceptable vs. RMC. You're likely going to have to cut 3' pieces and use a lot of couplings, there are some trade methods that could eliminate a few couplings, but if you are not familiar with these ways it will take more time to learn that to just cut it.



Not really any simple way, you can leave some studs out during framing, drill holes for straight pipe in studs adjacent to where the pipe needs to be, then slide the pipe into the studs after install. But I am an electrician, and I would be cutting a bunch of pieces trying to use the joist space and dropping vertical whenever I could. One unfortunate effect of this law is spaces get wired to the minimum requirement, and this encourages the overuse of extension cords.

Answer 10

If that's the code, that's the code. It's pointless to argue with the local inspector since the NEC grants him or her final authority. Literally, if they want you to install your wiring naked and paint it pink and green you have to do it. I've had an electrical license for over 30 years and long ago gave up arguing with self-righteous local inspectors.



Actually, installing wiring in EMT conduit is not so bad. I worked with it for years as a construction electrician and chose to put it voluntarily in my basement and in the attics of homes I have owned. Insects and animals can't get to the wiring to damage it and it makes it easy to run multiple circuits or to add or replace wires later.



YOu are right, it would be best to distribute the circuits from the panel across the ceiling and set 4" square boxes in the ceiling to run lateral drops over to the wall and down whereever you want switches or receptacles. There is really no need (nor do you want the hassle) of trying to run conduit laterally through the wall studs. We didn't even do that in commercial and institutional jobs in construction. I recommend using 4" x 4" steel boxes with 1/2" and 3/4" knockouts in the sides to install for all the outlets and switches. Get the ones with the built in side bracket and go around the room screwing them to the studs (I use short drywall or deck screws driven in with a cordless drill) in every location that you want a device to be. Then knock out the 1/2" knockout blank that is closest to the stud and screw in a 1/2" EMT connector. if you have a 1/2" EMT bender you can bend your own riser conduits, but if you don't own one or don't know how to use it you can just buy 1/2" 90 degree EMT elbows. Attach an elbow with a coupling (set screw style or compression) to a stick of 1/2" conduit. The measure from the top of the box to the ceiling where your conduit is going to turn into the room. Measure and cut the conduit riser with the 90 on top to that length and slip it in the connector on the box attached to the wall. You can buy spring steel pinch clamps made by B-line or Buchanan that screw to the stud to attach the conduit . You need one within 6" of the box and then another just before the 90. If you choose to use 1 hole conduit clamps you need to get what are called "clamp back spacers" to put behind them so that the conduit isn't bent at an angle when you try to mount it to the stud. The location of the knock out in the box keeps it a 1/2" from the stud so the spacer evens that out. Go around and do this same riser arrangement at every switch and receptacle location. Then run 3/4" conduit from your panel and across the ceiling (using 90 degree elbows to turn corners and Minerallac or broom clamps (the round open clamps with the bolt and nut across the tab on the ends) screwed to the overhead joists to support the conduit. When you get parallel with one of the wall riser pipe stubs, set a 4" x 4" steel ceiling box there and terminate the 3/4" conduit in it. Then continue the conduit to the next stub up and set a box. Continue until you have a path to all the box risers. Then go back and run 1/2" conduit from the 90 degree stubs from the wall risers over to the nearest ceiling box.



This installation is actually quicker and cleaner than having to drill dozens of holes in the framing for romex or MC cable. With the 3/4" feeder conduit coming from the panel you will be able to run 3 or 4 circuits in it if you want, dropping each at the appropriate overhead box to feed the devices as you pass. Get spools of #12 or #14 THHN wire (I prefer solid but some folks prefer stranded) in black, white and green to pull your circuits. If you can also get red or blue to identify second and third circuits that's great, otherwise you will have to tag the black wires with stick on numbers or colored tape at each end to indentify multiple circuits in the conduit.



I know this is a bit more expensive than running Romex or even MC cable, but it really does go faster, especially with a one man installation, and the results look clean and are more protected from damage.