any tips for installing drywall on ceiling by yourself?

Question

i am planning on installing drywall to the ceiling in my basement. i really dont have too many people to have help me out with this, and i know there are those drywall lifts which i will probably rent. however i am wondering if there may be any tips or tricks anyone might have to help me out? thanks!

Answer 1

You will definitely want to rent a drywall lift. It will save a lot of headaches.



Ceiling drywall goes underneath the wall drywall. So the drywall sheets should go all the way to the framing. Make sure you know where your joists are before you put the drywall sheets up. "Hunting and pecking" is a poor way to find something to screw the drywall to.



On the ceiling, run your drywall screws about every 8 inches. Make sure the head of the screw is below the drywall paper but doesn't puncture it.



Okay, now the fun part: mudding. This is as much an art as it is a science. I can only give you basics here, but you'll have to practice to get it right.



You will need about three drywall knives: a 4", a 6 or 8", and a 10 or 12". These different sizes are needed to spread out the compound (mud) to a smooth finish. You can use either mesh or paper tape. I use paper. Spread a coat of mud on the seams that is wider than the tape. Push the tape into the mud over the seam. Now draw your 4" knife over the tape to lay it down flat into the mud and to squeegee off the excess. Immediately, follow with a layer over the tape. With the 4" knife, squeegee it smooth, making sure not to drag the tape. Level the screw indentations with mud and smooth.



When the compound dries, sand the rough spots. You can either use sandpaper in a holder or a sanding screen. I like the sanding screen. It doesn't clog as easily.



Apply a second coat of mud over the first, and use either your 6 or 8" knife to smooth this out. The smoother you make the mud when it's wet, the less you have to sand when it's dry.



The 10 and 12" knives are used to cover wide, rough areas such as in skim coating.

Answer 2

you need to put a few blocks of wood on the wall 1/2 inch from the ceiling then when you put the drywall up it will slip in behind it to hold it up,,. make a T with 2x4s so it is 1/2 inch from the ceiling and put that 3 feet from the wall to hold the rest of the sheet up till you get it nailed or screwed ...the T should be 4 feet wide ...after you get the first sheet up and nailed,, take the blocks off the wall and nail it over the sheet rock so the next piece will slid under that ..hope you can understand what i'm trying to say ..good luck

Answer 3

Step One: is to choose which way to place the long dimension of the wallboards. It is recommended to run the length of the sheet perpendicular to the ceiling joists. It will reduce the chance of joint cracks or nail pops appearing, as well as give maximum structural strength to the drywall installation.



Depending on the length of drywall sheet you are using, and the orientation of the ceiling joists relative to the shape of the room, you should also consider placing the length of the sheets such that you have a minimum number of joints to between sheets to finish.



When installing drywall on a ceiling, the sheets should be both double-nailed and glued in place. Use drywall and construction adhesive, available in 11 and 29-ounce caulking gun cartridges. The 11 ounce size is easier to use and holds enough for drywalling jobs.



Due to the weight of the wallboard exerting a downward pull on the nails, there is greater risk of nail pops and joint cracks, but this attachment method will greatly reduce these chances. Cracks and other flaws in ceiling joints are usually much more noticeable than in sidewalls because of the lighting fixtures.



Step Two: Start covering the ceiling in one of the corners, and try to begin with a full sheet. For applying the glue, use a caulking gun, cutting the tip of the glue cartridge at and angle of 45 degrees. On joists located in the center portion of a wallboard, apply a single bead line of glue straight down the middle of the joist. On the joists at the joint edges of the wallboard, apply the glue in a single bead line zig-zag, or snake pattern.



Step Three: Nailing Warning- Wear protective eyewear, you will be nailing overhead and debris may fall. In fact, gypsum wallboard dust is non-toxic, but will cause your eyes to burn and keep you from working for a minute or so. Try not to stand directly under the nail you are working on; this will help.



It is recommended to use a drywalling hammer. This is a special purpose tool which has a rounded head, used to create the dimpling in the wallboard around the nailhead. The face the head is serrated in a waffle-like pattern to grip the nailhead while nailing. Your nailing pattern should be:



*) on the joint edges of the wallboard sheets, one row of nails six inches apart, an eigth of an inch from the edge

*) On the long length edges, a row pitched 24 inches aaprt, 1/8 inch from the edge

*) Along the joists, the pattern should be (for a 4" wide sheet) one nail an eight inch from the edge, then a spacing of 24 inches, a row of double nailing spaced 2 inches aprt, then 24 inches to the next double nailing, and repeat.

*) On butt joints, stagger the nails with a one inch offset

Answer 4

you can make a tee brace from two 2x4's to hold up the drywall while you screw it to the ceiling.

Make it just a little higher than the ceiling height and you can jam it under the piece of drywall and it will stay up 'til you can get some screws into it.

Answer 5

If you get that lift you wont need any tips. Those things are the best. You want to make sure you stagger your sheets. So start out with an 8' sheet, then have your next one be a 4' . That's just an example but i think you get what im saying. Take your time and be patient and you ll do fine. Good Luck !!

Answer 6

I used to do it by myself by using short step stool, placing drywall on top of head step up and have screw gun or hammer and nail ready to get at least two fasteners in.

You may get some more good idea's by looking on YouTube on this subject.

Answer 7

If you're doing the work alone, or even if you have a friend to help, it's totally worth renting that lifting device !!!