Sheathing Reroof, few general questions?

Question

Thanks in advanced for any advice. I have a 400 sq ft workshop that needs some of the old osb replaced. There was a big camphor tree above the workshop and the previous owner let leaves sit on the roof for years and eventfully the leaves created soil and made the osb moist and expand and rot.

I was going to replace it with plywood. My question is can I just take out the rotted osb piece by piece and replace with the new plywood as it was laid out previous? I am in Florida and I realize that I will need spacers between the plywood sheets. I will be working mostly by myself and I am trying to save a few bucks doing this on my own. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks so much.

Answer 1

Here is what you do, and the order in how you do it.

#1. Determine how many 4'x8' sheets you will need to replace the decking. Replace it all. Use 5/8" o.s.b. It is plenty strong and not nearly as heavy as plywood.Get your o.s.b. and nails delivered or go get it yourself and have it at the jobsite along with a set of saw horses, (2) 8' pcs. of 2"x4", circular saw with new blade,extension cord, and obviously a tape measure and couple carpenters pencils, chalkline and some safety glasses.Purchase a plastic tarp about 16'x12',Flat shovel and a hammer or nailgun with nails,and a ladder.Also purchase 30# felt paper, steel or aluminum roof edge and roof shingles and nails for your roof,and also spacer clips (steel) to fit the o.s.b.thickness.

#2.Pick a day with no rain in forecast. Spread tarp out close to building so it catches old roof materials as you rip it off.Lay your 2" x 4"s on sawhorses and 1 sheet of the o.s.b. on the 2"x4"s. Start at the bottom of the roof and rip off the shingles and the first row of rotted o.s.b. Now measure for your first sheet of new o.s.b. and cut to fit. Put the uncut edge or *factory edge* so it falls on center of roof rafter where the next sheet will butt against it. Keep bottom long edge of new o.s.b. in line by using a snapped chalkline.

#3.Now just secure this sheet with 6-8 nails in various locations. Move on to the next sheet. Now you have a good solid area to stand or kneel on to work from. Temporarily nail a 2"x4" flat on the new o.s.b. to give you a safety toe board if the roof is too steep. Continue to tear off and replace roof decking as you go.Now go back and fill in the nails so sheets are all secured properly.

#4.Clean up debris from one side before you go around to the other side. Now repeat process on the remaining side.

#5.Now install 30# roof felt over the new o.s.b. roof decking and the metal roof edge.Finish the job by installing the ridge shingles over the peak.

#6.If you are unsure about installing roof felt and shingles/ridge - ask your supplier about this process.

The big mistake most DYI ers make is they spend too much time running back and forth to the home center getting stuff they forgot, and also not preparing by having the tools they need. Plan on asking a friend or two to help you since 5/8" o.s.b. is a little heavy. I never mind helping someone who has everything there and ready to work. What I hate is helping someone who is not prepared, and taking up an hour or two running to the home center to pick all this stuff up. You need the help doing the work - not rounding up all the stuff. Go to It !

Answer 2

you might as well replace the entire side with new wood. osb or plywood, whatever you want to use.

osb is cheaper and does a great job.

h-clips are a good idea like the other answer states.

you will get a better looking roof when you have all new and the same thickness of sheathing(osb grows when wet, most of your roof may not be 1/2" thick anymore)



1/2" osb/plywood is more than thick enough for your project and is ratted to span 32"(i'd stick to 24 oc though)



for around $200 you can have a strong roof again

Answer 3

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Answer 4

yes, in fact I recommend doing it that way. Do yourself a favor and use 3/4 cdx plywood as a replacement, there is not that many sheets on a small shop that size... an 8 penny nail spacer is plenty along the 4' butt joints, and you won't need h-clips unless you have 24" on center truss spacing

Answer 5

It's all 4x8 stuff it should not be a problem.