Install hard wired oven to replace a 13Amp fused plug in one ...?

Question

I currently have a built under single electric oven (Diplomat ADP3622) that has died and beyond economic repair, so am looking to whip that out and install a Zanussi ZOP37902XK single electric oven instead.

The issue I face, is that the current oven is plugged into a normal looking socket outlet, via a standard 13amp plug (just like the sort on every other electrical appliance!) ... The new oven says it needs to be "hard wired".

The socket that the current oven plugs into is on a dedicated cabling, that goes around the kitchen, through the wall into the garage with a fuse on it's own marked as "cooker" (there's another separate fuse marked "Kitchen", which is for all the sockets, and the electric hob), so the oven itself does seem to have its own solitary fuse in the fuse box (if i turn that fuse switch off, it only turns off the oven and nothing else).

The new oven doesn't come with any wire/cable attached to it, as expected to provide that at installation.
Guidance on the instruction manual as ;
Applicable types of cables for Europe;
- Minimum size Cable/Flex : 1,5mm2
- Cable/Flex Type; HO7 RN-F, H05 RN-F, H05 RRF, H05 VV-F, H05 V2V2-F (T90), H05 BB-F
Connection Via; Oven Control Circuit (I assume this is referring to the cable going from the socket into the fuse box in the garage -- Fuse 15Amp Min - 20Amp Max --- Again, assuming this is the fuse in the fuse box, rather than at the outlet oven end?)

My questions really are;
1) Is this something I am able to do myself (not a bad DIY'er and if it's simple enough then I might give it a go).
2) What sort of things/materials do I need to convert a current wired plug in socket, into a hard wired one? (Is it just a simple case of getting a new face plate to blank off the current plug in socket, and wire the cooker directly into this ?) and what cable should I get from those specified?

Any pointers on the above, how easy is it, where to find the above supplies etc, would be greatly appreciated!!

Many thanks in advance!

Answer 1

Most SINGLE ovens are 3kw or less and so all you need to do is transfer the flex and plug from your old to the new oven and plug it in as before. If the oven is more than 3kw it will melt the fuse in the plug, In this case since you already have a dedicated circuit, you will need to remove the 13a socket and replace it with a 20 amp double pole switch, and connect a new 1.5 sq.mm flex from the oven to the switch. Check the oven rating on the plate. should be max = XX watts ? If the new oven is more than 3000 watts, you may have to change the fuse/mcb from 15/16 to 20amp. (e.g.. 4000 watts = appx. 17 amps.)

Answer 2

If it wasn't for the socket outlets this would be a sinch. Bottom line is the oven needs its own circuit which you seem to have in place and I'm guessing is supplied with a 6.0mm conductor? If that's case then just replace the 32A MCB with a 16A as the manufacturer recommends and leave the 6.0mm in place.



What is concerning is the socket outlets that are on this circuit, protected by a 32A MCB, which would suggest a ring final circuit (two x 2.5mm conductors in the MCB?). You said that "if i turn that fuse switch off, it only turns off the oven and nothing else" then "I've also discovered that this circuit also controls the two double sockets that were installed when the kitchen was revamped ten years (ish) ago" If this a radial circuit with one x 2.5mm conductor in the MCB then the 32A MCB is a fire risk.



From a 32A MCB you can have: 1 x 4.0mm (normal for a radial socket outlet circuit), 6.0mm (normal for a radial cooker circuit) or 2 x 2.5mm (normal for a ring final socket outlet circuit). What you can't have is 1 x 2.5mm conductor protected by a 32A MCB so for your new oven you need a 16A MCB and at least a 1.5mm conductor. Don't worry if the supply conductor is larger than 1.5mm but it is important that you get the MCB rating correct. If the manufacturer quotes a 16A MCB then that is what you must use as the manufacturers instructions supercede the wiring regulations.



Then you need the 20A cooker isolator (or a cooker control unit which incorporates a 13A socket outlet). If you want to continue using the socket outlets that seem to be on the same circuit then you need to install a 13A FCU (fused connection unit) somewhere between the cooker switch and the first socket outlet otherwise the sockets could cause overload.



From the Isolator or CCU you need to drop a further conductor down to a cooker outlet unit to which you also connect the cooker cable if supplied if not then just use a cable with the same CSA as comes from the MCB

Answer 3

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RE:

Install hard wired oven to replace a 13Amp fused plug in one ...?

I currently have a built under single electric oven (Diplomat ADP3622) that has died and beyond economic repair, so am looking to whip that out and install a Zanussi ZOP37902XK single electric oven instead.



The issue I face, is that the current oven is plugged into a normal looking socket...

Answer 4

The fact is that you can not legally do this work. Kitchens are a "special location" under the law fixed-wired appliances must be installed by a qualified and registered electrician. This is a legal requirement under Part P of the Building Regulations. Breach of the law can result in a fine and criminal record.



The new installation must registered with the local authority and be tested and a certificate issued. Without this certificate your insurance may be invalidated and you could have problems selling the house if the buyer's surveyor or solicitor asks for it.



It is actually also very dangerous and illegal to tamper with the wiring in the Consumer Unit unless you are qualified to do this and understand the total loading and testing requirements. So you must not even think about replacing units in this box.



You say that you won't do this work if you are not confident enough. You admit that your are confused and also ask a lot of technical questions about the wiring capacity, consumer unit, etc. You mention fuses, but these have not been used for over 30 years so either you cannot recognise an MCB or your box needs replacing anyway.



Therefore, logically, you are not qualified to install this cooker. For legal and safety reasons please do not do this. You should not risk your family's safety (fire and/or electrocution) for the sake of an electrician's fee to have the job done properly.

Answer 5

13 Amp Ovens

Answer 6

If you were to get an electrician in he would probably connect your new oven and hob together as the hob is connected to the dedicated cooker circuit however because the paper work states connect to a 15 to 20amp fuse it could invalidate your guarantee

It really sound like you need a new dedicated cooker circuit installing using 4mm twin and earth which needs its own 16amp MCB in the consumer unit(Fuse box). because your old oven had a lower wattage it was able to be plugged into the kitchen ring main.



check out this link as well what is the difference between a fuse and an MCB.

just to add to your ever increasing knowledge lol.

http://www.diydata.com/electrics/fuses_mcb_rcd_rcbo/fuses_mcb_rcd_rcbo.php

Answer 7

This is not a big a job. It will take a box cover that accepts the connector cable. Buy the cable at the same place you buy the cover. If the oven is the same amperage as before you won't have a problem. If you have direct access to the panel box you could run a new dedicated circuit. The salesman at your hardware store should be able to help you get all the parts you need.

Answer 8

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Answer 9

Whilst a very basic oven may draw less than 13 amps current when operating in some modes, most will draw well in excess of this depending on what facilities they have, e.g. bake and grill at the same time, or maybe a combi-oven - one that can bake and microwave at the same time.

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