When I pour my concrete driveway in 16 x 8 sections, what should I do to attatch the next section?

Question

I plan on making block ends after each section. I'm wondering how to join each section. Should I just have 24 inch pieces of rebar inserted 12 inches into the poured section through the block end, with the other 12 inches sticking out the other side of the block end, waiting for the next pour? Do you recommend making a tongue and grove type of joint in the cement? I like the rebar idea the best. Would I have to put expansion joints between each section also, or could I just make my control cut there, with no expansion joint? I want to make sure the sections all stay even with each other, without separating.

Answer 1

A "cold joint" in your concrete will be fine, and the rebar to keep each pad even is a good idea***, I've always used wire "fencing" mats pulling them up into the concrete, and kept them short of the edges. Relying on a good base to prevent uneven heaving( think of sidewalks---they're not joined together and usually only heave unevenly when forced up by a tree root). (i have no idea what the "block ends" are)

***The only problem with rebar joining the pads are time and corrosion---where the rebar sticks out from the concrete and spans the tiny crack between each pad, air and moisture will combine with the lime in the cement and rust the rebar, in time it will rust, expand, and crack your concrete. This is why when you see highway crews using rebar it is greenish in color, this is a special coating that protects it from rusting. It still does over time-adding salt to the roads in the NY winters speeds up this process. If you look closely at concrete road/highway "potholes" you'll almost always see a rust stain on the concrete first and around the newly forming "hole".

If you decide on this method,(personally, I would not or have not) anything you can do to that small area of rebar that sticks in the crack between pours that will fend off rusting a little longer is also a good idea.

Answer 2

CHEAP is probably relative to what you acquire to do the job. EASY may not at all be the case, as a DIY. Obviously renting a piece of equipment dictates that it will be a DIY. Without knowing at all, the length/width/thickness of the drive; yet knowing the approximate weight of a slab of concrete/stone mix in even 1 foot squares at 4 to 6 inches thick,,, you probably should expect a tedious time, and enlist anyone you can to help. Since you seem to NOT want a backhoe, you probably could use a couple Wheelbarrows, a couple of Pick axes, some shovels, rakes, a place and means to get rid of the broken drive, and a decent nights sleep before the fact. Obviously our own labor in a DIY is usually discounted, but it still exists. Steven Wolf

Answer 3

tongue and groove with cement (concrete) is a bad idea. Why? the top of the groove will break very easily.



For joining the new section the rebar sounds good. Also, they sell a white milky liquid that is made for joining new concrete to old concrete.

Answer 4

ANSWER DELETED

In that I only get one vote, and the ASKER wants the voters to select the best answer, my answer was deleted. I'm tired of answering and having completely incorrect responses supported by fan clubs selected by the "VOTERS" as best answer. It just is not in the spirit of what I thought this site was all about.



For all the reasons and details provided, and deleted, rebar will not work and actually will result in significant damage. By the way alternates and solutions were provided, and deleted, which would have solved your issues.

Answer 5

For a 16x8 section you need expansion joints. Go to the cement store and ask the guy what that means. (It's cheap.)

Answer 6

all correct go as planned.