How Do I Replace The Pressure Valve On My Water Heater? What tools do I need,?

Question

need, what do I need to purchase to fix the pressure valve

We have moved into a property few months back.
I had noticed that the pressure realease valve from the side of the house on my water heator(gas) is continuosly flowing hot water out of the outlet.

Is this normal.?I understand from my talks to a plumber that the pressure valve needs to be replaced.He is quoting $160 for this.Can I fix this myself??Any hints on how do I get it fixed.

I live in Altona , a suburb in Melbourne Australia.

Answer 1

Your plumber is correct. First pick up a new pressure and temp relief valve. Next you should have a copper line attached to it, if it is a short pipe then you won't have to sweat on new parts. If it is not and you have never sweat copper before you many want to pay the plumber. The valve its self is quite simple it unscrews replace it using pipe dope. Pipe dope is liquid Teflon tape. Use a pipe wrench to unscrew and tighten. For sweating you need a can of mapp gas not propane and a torch, emery cloth, a wet rag, pipe cutter, solider and paste. You can buy a kit that has all of the items needed. Also a fire resistant cloth. The pipe is most likely 3/4" get a coupler. Cut the pipe sand all pieces using the emery cloth, next use the paste on all, next re join the copper and coupler, next ignite your torch you will want to use a fire resistant cloth between the pipe and the water heater make sure you cut the pipe a couple of inches from the valve and save the piece that is in the valve it also unscrews replace it in the new valve. If it is the sweat type then you will need extra copper. Touch the flame to the opposite side of the pipe for about twenty seconds you are touching both the coupler and the pipe. Touch the solider to the pipe if it melts it is ready and will fill the gap. It will flow easily when it is hot enough. When applying the solider move the torch away. After the solider is applied to both side of the coupler use the wet rag to cool down the copper this will help seat the solider and you are done. Make sure you turned off the water heater and no more water is coming out before you start. Any water needs to be removed from the pipe before you start.

Answer 2

Another opinion here. I'm in the USA so things may be a little different, but the basic principles are the same.



1. NO, water flowing from the valve discharge IS NOT NORMAL and indicates a problem with the valve.

2.The Plumber MAY be right about the valve needing to be replaced.

3. The quote sounds to be normal, although too high for me.

4. IF your local codes or ordinances allow it, then YES, YOU CAN FIX IT YOURSELF.



Here are some instructions and hints on doing the job, IF you are legally allowed to do so.



The Temperature and Pressure Relief valve [commonly refered to as a T&P valve here] is designed, intended, and installed on water heaters as a safety device to prevent mechanical explosions from overpressure caused by a failed thermostat allowing the burner to operate to the point of generating steam and hazardous pressure.



The valve design has both a spring to allow the valve to open above a certain pre-set pressure, AND it has a thermal sensing capability which does the same thing above a certain pre-set temperature.



Over time, fluctuations [pressure "spikes"] in the municipal water mains can cause the valve to partially open periododically. This can allow sediment or other small debris normally present in our water systems to become trapped on the valve seat, thus preventing the valve from fully reseating. This results in some leakage from the discharge pipe to the outside.



Also occassionally, the spring can weaken, or the temperature sensing ability can degrade, allowing the valve to open prematurely.



Before replacing the valve I suggest a simple exercise to clear the debris and allow the valve to reseat properly. IF debris is the cause of the leak, then flushing will stop the leak. IF the valve or temperature setting have become defective the leak will continue and the valve will have to be replaced.



To flush the valve and dislodge debris I move the test [flush] handle to the full open position for a few seconds, and then quickly/forcefully SNAP it back to closed so as to seat it firmly. I repeat this several times and then go and observe the other end of the outlet drain line. IF debris was the leak cause, AND if the flushing exercise was successful in clearing the debris from the valve and seat, then the flow will have ceased.



Recheck the outlet for dryness the next day [the time is to allow the water from your flushing/testing to dry up], indicating the valve is sealed closed and not leaking any longer. If after 24 hours the valve is still leaking, then try the flush exercise sequence again. IF the leak is not stopped, then the valve will require replacement as [to my knowledge] they are not capable of being "overhauled or rebuilt."



Assuming that your local plumbing codes/ordinances/laws allow you to do your own plumbing work and replacement of the T&P valve, it is a simple process if you are handy with tools and mechanical procedures.



You will need a new valve, a round wire brush to clean the pipe threads in the heater port opening, either some Teflon Plumber's Thread Tape, or some liquid Plumbers Pipe Thread compound [often called Pipe Dope] , and a wrench or two [here in the US, our T&P valves have hexagonal flats on the valve so we can use a "Crescent" or adjustable wrench, or even the proper sized "open-end] wrench. It is also possible to use a "Pipe Wrench" but I prefer to avoid them whenever I can. Once the materials and tools are at hand, you can then proceed to remove and replace the valve.



First, turn off the water to the heater. IF you're LUCKY, there will be a valve in the incoming cold water line within a foot of the heater top. If there is no valve, then you will have to turn the water off at the main entrance, usually near the water meter location.



Once the water supply is off, you need to open a hot water valve at the kitchen sink, or a bathroom lavatory to allow air into the system to allow you to drain a gallon or so of water from the heater to prevent flooding when you remove the T&P valve.



Once a "vent" is created from above then place a bucket or pan beneath the bottom "drain" valve on the water hearter. Open the valve and drain about a gallon or two of water. Close the valve securely enough to prevent any leakage.



Next, using an old paint brush or a broom, thoroghly clean all debris and dust from around the point where the old T&P valve is screwed into the heater.



Then, using your wrench[es], remove the T&P drain piping from the old valve, then remove the old/defective valve from the heater, and using the round wire brush, clean all debris [old pipe dope compound or Teflon tape from the threaded opening in the heater.



Then wrap THREE or four layers of Teflon tape around the male threads of the new T&P valvle and gently screw it into the water heater, being careful to keep it perfectuly perpendicular to the heater opening to PREVENT CROSS THREADING!!!!!



When it has screwed in at least 3 to 5 th

Answer 3

try tweeking the pressure release valve there may be a bit of debris in the seal (or as your in oz s*%t in the seal)

open and close it a couple of times this may free the debris and cure it for free

worth a try

Answer 4

Its about as easy or difficult as changing the thermostat on your car.



Another option is to turn down your temperature. If you are not boiling water in your water heater - you shouldn't have to worry about it. Set your thermostat to 60C or there abouts - and see if that helps first.